THE TEMPUS
A trip down a rabbit hole
For me, the perfect antidote to a week of whatever – the good, bad or ugly, is a weekend away for a change of scene and to return relaxed, with a fresh perspective, bursting with new ideas and creative flow.
My choice for 48 hours? A pause on reality-style break at an Alice in Wonderland-inspired boutique hotel.
Located two hours from Edinburgh, The Tempus is nestled in the 150-acre historic Charlton Estate near Alnwick in Northumberland.
There’s an air of magic and intrigue about Northumberland, with its Viking history, majestic castles perched upon a dramatic, rugged coastline, the ethereal Holy Island, sweeping stretches of sandy beaches and swathes of land shrouded in the mystical sea fret (haar). The hotel’s owner has clearly been driven to capture the essence of place and distil some of those elixirs into the makings of the hotel experience.
The Tempus, which opened in May 2023, is a collection of 18th-century honey-coloured sandstone buildings that have been converted into individually styled bedrooms and characterful outbuildings. It comprises 32 bedrooms, a restaurant, bar and orangery.
The lavish interiors set the stage for a magical two-day escape, creating a vibe of excitement, awe and wonder. Edinburgh-based Jeffrey’s Interiors won a British Institute of Interior Design Award for the project, and a quick spin around before you drop down a rabbit hole will tell you why.
A neon installation greets you as you enter the hotel, and walking through to the lounge, you’re met with sumptuous sofas accessorised by swirling patterned cushions, shelves adorned with ‘Glitter’ and ‘Secrets’ jars, colour and warmth everywhere.
The bar’s black-and-white tiled floor sits under a collection of disco balls, surrounded by lavish, jewelled-hued furnishings and a backdrop of Jean Paul Gaultier wallpaper featuring a woodland walk with coloured suits from a deck of cards. Very Tulgey Wood.
The marvellous, magical interiors set the scene for the star of the show during our stay – the food. Menus are small, seasonal and perfectly formed, focussing on locally sourced produce and, in my view, covering all tastes and dietary requirements.
Expect a blend of comfort classics such as fish and chips, burgers, seasonal risotto, Croque Monsieur and pie of the day, as well as lighter options such as Cajun salmon flatbread, mussels and a selection of salads.
After a day exploring nearby castles, beaches and market towns, my husband and I settle down in the Orangery for a late lunch – champagne and Shepherd’s pie, feeling like we’ve arrived at the Mad Hatter’s tea party late, in Alice fashion. The bright, spacious, airy, pink- and orange-decorated Orangery is filled with afternoon tea takers and their dinky little bites.
Evenings at The Tempus are a delightfully decadent experience. Start the evening with a tipple in the outdoor Tipi’s rustic bar, serving cocktails, wines and a selection of local beers, spirits and incredible street food, or head to the hotel bar and choose a cocktail from the menu of Wonderland-inspired creations. I recommend doing both, but particularly the latter, for Instagram-worthy cocktails that whisper, ‘Drink me’, before you move through to the restaurant for dinner.
The highlight of the menu for me was the slow-cooked feather blade beef wrapped in pastry, served with creamed potato, garlic sautéed greens and Bourguignon gravy. This dish was so dreamily delicious that I’ll devote a considerable amount of time to trying to recreate it at home. The smoked cheese soufflé with leeks, parmesan, and truffle was mesmerising and otherworldly, and as such, is unlikely to be recreated by my hands.
A mention must also go to The Tempus’ team, who have a seemingly magical knack for creating such a gorgeous, laid-back atmosphere underpinned with the most wonderful attention to detail; everything is seamless, and the warm, relaxed vibe permeates every human touchpoint you’ll have in the hotel.
It’s not magic, though; it’s hospitality at its best. Training, knowledge, passion and most importantly, human warmth and care in wonderful surroundings – the very essence of hospitality.
The hotel is very much a destination in itself and is becoming more so. Plans include a spa, a lake-facing infinity pool, and seven pond-side lodges.
The Tempus also hosted a female-focused rural retreat powered by yoga and activewear brand Lululemon, with more dates planned. Being located in Northumberland’s International Dark Sky Park, the hotel has also partnered with Kielder Observatory to launch a new stargazing experience for guests in 2025, accompanied by an overnight stay and dinner.
This is a rural recharge that channels colourful energy with quirky luxury, bold design, and relaxed vibes, while staying grounded in its wholesome, farmstead roots.
I happily fell down a whimsical, decadent rabbit hole and emerged with bright-eyed wonder, renewed energy, and that little bit curiouser and curiouser…
THE TEMPUS
Charlton Hall Estate, Chathill, Northumberland, NE67 5DZ
Rooms: Rooms and offers from £199 per night
Website: THE TEMPUS
Originally published: Take a Trip Down The Rabbit Hole - The Scotsman
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