GECKO BEACH CLUB
Barefoot and boho luxe in Formentera
I visit the Balearics at least once a year; the pull of Ibiza is always a powerful one, but for this trip, which has been hotly recommended to me by someone in the know (he visits every year), I resist the call of the disco ball and head to Formentera, the smallest and most southern Balearic Island.
The flight to Ibiza is always an interesting one. The later in the season, the wilder it is. I’m travelling in May, however, and it’s calm; nobody’s drinking vodka from a Fanta bottle, and no diversion threats have been made.
A 10-minute taxi from Ibiza airport takes you to the port in Ibiza Town, where the Formentera ferry will most likely be waiting (there are two every hour), and within half an hour, you’ll be transported to another world.
Rustic, elemental, time-warped and free-spirited, Formentera is less like Ibiza’s quiet little sister as it’s often referenced, and more, in my view, the cool, hippy Auntie who’s been there, done that and will tell you all about it over a biodynamic wine, kaftan blowing in the wind, barefoot in the sand.
We’re there for the boho-luxe hippy vibe, so we trundle our cases over to the car rental office to pick up the keys to our vintage Citroën Méhari. Built in the late 60s, the Méhari is the unofficial symbol of the islands’ free-spirited, fun-loving, laid-back identity and our trusty companion for the week, zipping down dusty caminos to secret coves and sleepy chiringuitos.
A 30-minute pootle along the island’s roads and dust tracks (which may have been more like 15 minutes had my husband not driven the entire way with the handbrake on…) and we’ve arrived at our destination, Gecko Hotel & Beach Club.
A dreamy hideaway folded into the southern curve of Migjorn beach, Gecko Hotel & Beach Club is a welcome oasis of lush green lawns, sun-bleached neutrals and deep maritime blues; a nod to retro Riviera charm with a whisper of 50s Palm Beach flair.
With just 30 rooms, the vibe is intimate and relaxed, but with seamless hospitality and a friendly, attentive team to make you feel like you’re in your very own private Mediterranean beach house.
We’re in the Pool Corner Room, which has a soft, retro maritime vibe, nothing too twee; everything feels understated and chic - cool marble floors, whitewashed wrap-around privacy, mid-century touches, solid natural furniture and vast beds. It also has a shaded terrace with a daybed for lazing and a plunge pool.
Here, mornings begin with yoga amidst the quiet hush of the lawns, the sound of the breeze whispering through the surrounding sabina trees, and whatever excited thoughts I have about the day ahead.
A meander over to the terrace for a sun-soaked, healthy breakfast follows as I lose my plans for the day and train of thought in the turquoise horizon.
Cap de Barbaria lighthouse is one of our first stops. Perched dramatically on a rocky outcrop with literally breathtaking sheer-drop views, the closest you’ll get to it is to walk about a kilometre by foot, as the area is protected. It’s eerily quiet, beautiful, remote, with a strange energy I can’t put my finger on. I mention to my husband that it’s got a ‘Picnic at Hanging Rock’ feel about it, something in the light, the space, the dry air and the otherworldly stillness.
If you’re feeling the lighthouse vibe, take a trundle to the other end of the island to visit La Mola lighthouse. The views from the road as you wind your way upwards are almost as good as when you get there. Situated at the highest point on the island, it’s said to be a place of energy and elemental force, where the island’s ancient spirit is most palpable.
Formentera is scattered with beaches, coves and sandy hideaways to suit every mood and moment. According to Lonely Planet, Platja de Ses Illetes, with its crystalline waters and sugar-white sand, is "as close a vision of the Caribbean (minus the coconut trees) as you could imagine in Europe." Situated at the island's western tip, this pristine beach is a must-visit, but it does get busy with day-trippers from Ibiza.
Our afternoons on Migjorn Beach turn to evening with a daily visit to our local chiringuito, Karai. Formentera’s chiringuitos are more than beach shacks; they're the soulful, cultural backbone of island life, with plastic chairs, paper plates, 3-euro wine, and a unifying atmosphere.
Karai isn’t just a beach bar; it’s a mood. Part surfer hangout, part Formentera spirit and soul, it’s all salty air, music, laughter and easy-going chatter. You feel swept up in the vibe, wrapped in the laid-back energy, sharing tapas and stories with barefoot strangers who feel like friends by sunset.
Dinner is usually a very casual affair for us. We pad along to the hotel from our beach shack, not really feeling the vibe of dressing up for dinner, so it’s a staple order: the Acorn-Fed Iberian ham with crystal bread and tomato, chicken and ham croquettes, washed down with an Albariño. That said, the menu is excellent, with an impressive, diverse range of small plates and hearty dishes.
On the nights we venture out, we head to Macondo in Sant Ferran, famous for its monster-sized, mouthwatering pizzas. We go twice; it’s that good. The plaza is a buzz with locals, tourists and children darting through the warm night air, fuelled by their carb-laden experiences.
Don’t miss a trip to Sant Francesc, the ‘capital’ of the island, for a slow meander through its whitewashed streets lined with artisan boutiques and hippy shops selling handmade jewellery, woven baskets, incense, sage bundles and all the spiritual trimmings you didn’t know you needed. I brought some sage home to burn, a little bit of Formentera’s magic to chase away any negative energy.
Formentera is slow, hazy days with wild hair, salty sun-kissed skin, sun-bleached retro vibes and little pockets of understated luxury.
GECKO BEACH CLUB
Playa de Migjorn, Ca Mari 07860, Formentera, Balearic Islands, Spain
Rooms: From £292 per night
Website: GECKO BEACH CLUB
Originally published: Boho Luxe in Formentera - The Scotsman
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