Wind and waves in Fuerteventura
Etiam porta sem malesuada magna
There’s no good time to get Covid, however, 10 days before jetting off for a sunshine break in Turkey would seem unfortunate, and in this case, required a decisive, rapid change of plan due to the entry requirements at that time. Our alternative destination – Fuerteventura.
Situated less than 100 miles off Morocco’s Atlantic coast and known as ‘the island of strong wind’, Fuerteventura is a paradise for surfers and watersports enthusiasts; it’s also been attracting holidaymakers and those looking for something a little off the beaten track for more than 50 years.
Fuerteventura is an island of natural drama with its rugged coastline and arid landscape; volcanic mountains and fiery red rocks tower over shifting sand dunes, palm trees sway with the warm Saharan winds, the powerful ebb and flow of the Atlantic waves both soothes and stimulates. The wildly beautiful surroundings are so elemental, I’m reminded of the unique, intense energy this island has.
My first visit to Corralejo was when I was 18. I was with my family. Correction – I travelled with my family and spent two weeks with a bunch of surfers living a bohemian life on the beach. It’s very much that kind of place. You’ll find a blend of understated luxury, restrained development and an upliftingly refreshing windswept, laidback vibe running through all aspects of life here.
30 years on, my home this time is the Secrets Bahia Real Resort, situated in an idyllic natural enclave just a few miles from the centre of Corralejo and a 40-minute hop from the airport.
Renovated in 2021, this adult only oasis is reminiscent of a Moorish palace with its Arabic dome and expansive, airy, leafy atrium and classic pillars, sub-tropical flowers and marble floors; the resort interiors are a blend of warm terracotta walls, open spaces, verdant gardens, hidden features and open rooftops.
Each suite has a generous amount of space with just the right touches of simple elegance and 5-star comfort; a pillow menu, free wifi, a wide range of satellite channels, tea and coffee set and well stocked mini-bar. A double sofa, wooden desk, coffee table and super kingsize bed give you all you need to relax, (work if you must) and sleep soundly. Our spacious terrace was the perfect spot for elevated views of Lobos, a volcanic nature reserve and Lanzarote in the distance. The luxurious marble bathroom has a wet room style walk in shower, white fluffy bathrobes and slippers, a range of toiletries and twin basins.
Two swimming pools are located in the large colonial influenced internal courtyard garden with sun loungers and rattan chairs, a tropical oasis which offers shelter and shade from the coastal winds and all-day sunshine.
Walk out of the courtyard on to the resort’s Coco Beach, a trendy, relaxed beach club setting with private sun terrace, Balinese cabanas, premium loungers and lush gardens. A wooden walkway stretches out to a set of stairs leading down to the sea, if you’re brave enough for a dip in the Atlantic waves or simply relax, sundowner in hand embracing the chilled vibes. The beach dining space is elevated over the Atlantic and surrounded by glass, offering mesmerising views in a stylish environment with an impressive menu of tapas and seafood.
The hotel has seven restaurants offering an international buffet, Mediterranean gourmet cuisine, local dishes, Asian fusion, seafood and casual bites, with vegetarian and gluten-free options. The buffet breakfast presents more than 200 items; go healthy with the impressive range of herbal teas, juices, fruit, yoghurts and cereals, indulge your inner child with sweet treats and pastries (there are jars of fizzy Haribo…), go full on cooked breakfast, order off menu to get your eggs exactly how you like them or go Mediterranean continental with an impressive range of Spanish meats, olives, cheeses and grilled vegetables. You’ll also find just about every breakfast condiment under the sun, if you’re more of a ‘toast and tea’ type.
When you’re not enjoying a luxurious gourmet experience or soaking up the rays, wander down to the vast, 3000 square meter, beautifully tranquil Secrets Spa by Natura Bissé which offers 17 treatment rooms and a range of wellness therapies, a large-heated pool, hydrotherapy circuit, sauna and steam room. Don’t forget the ice fountain…. The spa also has a rooftop pool with open jacuzzi and sun loungers if you’re looking for a totally blissed out sun worshiping experience.
If sun salutations are your thing, you can do plenty of them. The resort has a daily morning yoga glass in the spa gardens – the most idyllic, gentle way to refocus the mind and let the energy of the island flow through your body and soul as the waves lap on the shore.
Windblown, sugar white sandy beaches stretch in both directions around the hotel. Turn right for a barefoot beach walk along Kite Beach towards the famous Corralejo Natural Dune Park; you’ll find stretches of sand dunes rolling for kilometers in the distance, dramatic, panoramic views all around. A must visit.
Turn left for a breezy wander along the coastline to Corralejo, drop into some of the surfer bars along the way and enjoy the chilled beachy vibe while watching the action on the water, cocktail in hand.
The uber-relaxed town of Corralejo has grown from a harbour village to one of the watersports capitals of the world. Walking down the strip you’ll find the usual tourist tat, steak houses, sports bars and gimmicky shops but as you get closer to the large, sheltered harbour, you’ll get more of a sense of the history and essence of the place.
Stroll along the old harbour to find the local, authentic restaurants serving the catch of the day with Canarian potatoes, an absolute must try. These wrinkly, salty potatoes are served with a signature spicy, smoky red pepper and garlic ‘mojo’ sauce and feature on most menus.
Small, swimming beaches stretch along the harbour, the busiest being Galera Beach, or Playa Waikiki as it’s known by the locals due to the situation of the famous hub of day and nightlife in Corralejo, the Waikiki Beach Club. Throw your towel down and venture into the crystal, clear water and enjoy the bay’s ideal swimming conditions. Pack a snorkel and discover life under the waves.
Seafood is a culinary staple in Corralejo and there’s an abundance of excellent restaurants to suit all budgets and tastes. We went off the beaten track, as we tend to do to in pursuit of simple food, done very, very well and found it in Bistrot del Mar, a tiny restaurant located at the back of a shopping centre. Many say it’s the best seafood restaurant they’ve been to. I would agree; we ordered 12 of the Gillardeau oysters and a bottle of crisp Albarino. The experience was so good we repeated the next evening. It’s very popular with the locals so do book well in advance. You will not be disappointed.
Another foodie highlight for us? Pizza at Pizzeria da Vivi; simple, authentic Italian pizza – no fuss, easy surroundings and for two pizzas and a couple of glasses of red you’re looking at 20 euros. Easily one of the best pizzas I’ve had.
People seem happy here in Corralejo, whether they’re ex-pats, locals or tourists; simplicity is everything and so much of that comes from the island’s natural elements. It’s a destination that knows what it is and feels entirely comfortable with that; that really does rub off on you and I found myself slowing down right down and embracing the simple pleasures of life, along with some memorable treats.
Fuerteventura is very low key, peaceful and chilled but with an unusual upbeat energy, emanating from nature and the people who choose to be there.
I won’t be waiting another 30 years to visit. My next trip is already booked.
Winter Sun in 5* Secrets Bahia Real Resort & Spa – Fuerteventura
7 nights, B&B in a Junior Suite
From £2058 per couple (based on December travel)
Flying from Edinburgh
To book: find your local Barrhead Travel store by visiting barrheadtravel.co.uk or call 0330 094 8364.