Heaven on a Mallorcan Hilltop

Mallorca has been on my travel list for some time.  Unbelievably, I have never been, although I’ve visited the Balearics more than any other destination in the world, thanks to my ongoing natural gravitation to Ibiza’s magical, mystical, elemental energy.

For me, Mallorca has been synonymous with the fly and flop, probably because it’s where my generation headed in the 80s for the great British holiday, and as a result, I have an everlasting image of ‘I love Mallorca’ fridge magnets in my head, wondering what’s to love.

I’m wrong in all my perceptions of Mallorca, of course.  Beyond the tacky, teenagery, tourist resorts and contradicting flash grandeur of superyachts and fast living, you’ll find history, heritage, culture, incredible gastronomy, lush green landscapes, turquoise coastlines and a grounding earthiness thanks to an abundance of natural wealth.

An island which has been subject to invasion for many centuries, from the Romans, Vandals and Moors to the stream of tourists over the last few decades, Mallorca has a rich history which has created a vibrant tapestry of culture, making it the cosmopolitan destination it is today.

For my long weekend of wellness and last boost of vitamin D before I hunker down for Autumn, I’m headed to Cap Vermell Grand Hotel on the northeast coast of the island.

Set on a hilltop, amidst the rugged natural beauty of the island, just half a mile from Playa de Canyamel and a ten-minute drive from the picturesque, historic town of Artà, Cap Vermell is a honey-hued haven.  One of the Leading Hotels of the World, Cap Vermell is designed as a traditional Mallorcan mountain village.  The small, perfectly formed and dreamily idyllic resort received the UNESCO World Prize for Architecture and Design (Prix Versailles).

With 142 luxury suites and villas surrounded by verdant gardens, fruit trees, rivers and lakes, Cap Vermell Grand Hotel is a blend of breezy Balearic charm, serenity and quiet luxury.

The hotel has gastronomy at its heart, quietly boasting (in hushed tones of course), several outstanding restaurants, including the world-famous Voro.  A  “a sensory journey that goes beyond conventional borders and horizons, always keeping its gaze on the rich heritage of Mediterranean cuisine”, Voro is the only 2 Michelin-star restaurant in Balearic Islands, headed by one of Spain’s most celebrated chefs, Alvaro Salazar.  The restaurant offers two constantly evolving 18 or 22-dish tasting menus on offer, plus a wine list with 400 national and international fine wines.

Balearic restaurant takes its inspiration from the culinary richness of the Mediterranean with a menu featuring local ingredients and authentic flavours prepared with the fresh seasonal ingredients from neighbouring farms and fishing ports.  The cuisine really is exceptional and matched by its breathtaking views across the Canyamel Valley which stretch towards the coastline in the distance.

Tapas is a cozy, stylish Spanish tapas/wine bar in the heart of the resort, but it’s not tapas as you or I know it.  Think tapas classics but scaled up with a Michelin inspired twist.  Patatas bravas in a perfect millefeuille, with a delicate drizzle of roasted garlic and spicy sauce.  No ‘hotter than the sun’ terracotta bowls bubbling away with olive oil and prawns, your al ajillo prawns come served on a slice of brioche with a chilli emulsion and the langoustine ravioli sits under a bed of coconut foam.  Tapas, elevated.

All restaurants are set around a main square, featuring a large deep blue sculpture of a bull, ‘Toro del Mar’,  which according to the artist, was inspired by his love for the creature and the sea and stands for temperament, beauty and the forces of nature.

This is the heart of the resort, which is surrounded by winding pathways leading upwards to accommodation and downwards to the pool areas.  If you don’t fancy the post dining ascent, a fleet of electric golf buggies are on hand to whizz you back to your room.

There’s also a pool bar located next to the resort’s three swimming pools, serving burgers, pizza, salads, sandwiches and light bites, including the creamiest, dreamiest houmous.  I thought my version was good. Chickpeas, we have work to do…

If you’re looking for a wellness escape and a long weekend to unwind and disconnect, Cap Vermell is the most heavenly haven of tranquillity.  You’ll be lulled into a perma-state of relaxation from the moment you arrive, and you can deepen that experience with a visit to the resort’s Serenitas spa.

A maze of Moorish inspired corridors and water features will lead you to the spa’s seven treatment rooms, saunas, vitality pools and relaxation rooms, one of which is a sprawling sun terrace overlooking the valley; it very much feels like stepping into another world and I certainly don’t want to leave. You can also say goodbye to muscle tension, balance your flow of energy and give your cellular rejuvenation a boost with a stretch out on the quartz sand bed. My massage is extraordinary, and I remain in a flotation state for the remainder of my trip.

If you’re looking to be more active than my quest to remain horizontal for two days, you’ll find fantastic hiking and mountain cycling right on your doorstep, and a range of pretty coves and beaches to explore nearby.

Cap Vermell is a paradise for golf lovers with several world-class courses nearby.  The hotel offers free transfers to the nearby course and a range of golf breaks.

There’s also a large, well-equipped gym and just a stone’s throw away you’ll find the Cap Vermell Country Club which offers another large gym with classes from yoga to Pillates to high impact workouts, two pools including a 25-metre indoor pool, Turkish baths and saunas, a tennis court and six padel courts.

Rooms at Cap Vermell are spacious and elegant, designed with simple, natural tones to reflect the surrounding countryside.  The hotel has a range of Deluxe Rooms, from Junior and Presidential Suites to four-bedroom villas, each with stunning views over the surrounding hills, sea or garden.

I’m staying in a Junior Suite which is exceptional in its size (48m2), furnished with elegant furniture and neutral décor, extending that understated elegance theme.  I have a king size bed, huge dressing area, bathroom with wet room, large bath, gorgeous Diptyque products and outside, a huge terrace, with a large comfortable sofa where I can relax and soak in the stunning views across the valley.  It’s a hotel room you want to spend time in.

Rooms are equipped with iPads, flat-screen TVs, a panel of touch button technology for ambient lighting and a good range of complimentary soft drinks and water, replenished daily.

If you’re looking for more space and privacy, and perhaps bringing friends or family, the resort’s Villas in Mallorca have spacious living rooms, a fully equipped kitchen, large dining room, four bedrooms and four elegant marble bathrooms.  The villas also have their own pool, luxurious sun beds and those dreamy views over Canyamel Valley.

Flight time to Mallorca from Edinburgh is two and a half hours and the hotel is an hour’s drive from Palma airport.

Cap Vermell Grand Hotel is a heavenly haven on a hilltop and the perfect destination for a long weekend to switch off the reality button, relax and restore.  It’s an easy enough journey to and from Scotland which means you don’t arrive fried from travel and you won’t return home with your newly acquired zen unravelling.

I love Mallorca.  Find me a fridge magnet…

Room rates at Cap Vermell Grand Hotel start from 550 euros per night in May and up to 836 in high season. The hotel closes for the season in November 2024 and reopens in March.

For more information and to book, visit capvermellgrandhotel.com